Pennsic 40 project

I haven’t had that much time to blog lately since my new physio therapist is having me rest my shoulder so that we can get more mobility in the arm eventually. But I thought that while I wait to be able to do two longer posts on some of the gifts I recieved at my elevation and the dress I wore at that occasion I could at least post two pictures of the progress of my Pennsic 40 project.

It all started with a bunch of us saying it would be cool to do something for Pennsic 40 and eventually we went with making heraldic dresses to be used at opening ceremonies and later. When living in Drachenwald we don’t really get an oportunity to be a Kingdom in the sense of we and them if you get my drift. We don’t have a war with another Kingdom, we don’t have Kingdom encampments… In Drachenwald the Principalities or Baronies march to war against eachother.
But at Pennsic we do get to be The Kingdom of Drachenwald and that is a rare thing that we want to make the most of!

So my project is a sideless surcote from the late 14:th century/begining of 15:th century. The debate on how and if the heraldic surcotes were really ever used has been lively and I am aware that this might not be all that historically accurate.
However – if the heraldic sideless surcotes were used they had a ceremonial purpose – and I would say that opening ceremonies at Pennsic is just that!:)
Mostly I am doing this dress to be able to show off that I am a Drachenwalder!
Half of the skirt will feature my own arms – the other half the Drachenwald populace badge. But I have altered them a bit.
Theese are my arms:

Theese are the Drachenwald arms:

And here is the panel featuring my arms:

The two parts of the panel will be joined together to form half of the skirt for a sideless surcote. The fabric used is wool and the aplique is fastened by couching a thick wool thread down with a thin one to form a black outline.

This is the panel featuring the Drachenwald arms:

The dragons were challanging to cut out and will most likely be dreadful to couch down – but I am happy with the over all look of the skirt panels!

The difficult candidate

This was not the blog post I thought I would write after Double Wars. In fact, I was planing to write about my new dress and some on the Arts and Sciences during this 10 day Drachenwald event. However, their Majesties had a big surprise for me.
On Wednesday the 1:st of July I was sent to vigil for elevation to the Order of the Laurel.
And I had absolutely NO clue!
Now, looking back, I must have been blind and def to all hints. And lots of things that happened in the past months suddenly make sense.:)
But I did not make life easy for all of my friends that were involved in organizing this big event for me.
First I had the shoulder surgery, and then it looked like it had gone wrong so I would have to go back and have it done all over again.
Then, one day before leaving for Double Wars, I decided that my new dress was a disaster and I would burn it and let my dear Lord go to the event on his own.
Once he had gotten me to Double Wars everyone thought that the rest would be easy. But no. On the Wednesday when I was going to be sent to my vigil I was in a really terrible mood and declared that I wouldn’t go to court and instead have a nap. And on top of it all, I did a small disapearing act on everyone when I  went to one of my protéges pavillion and sat there sewing for a while.
They managed to get me to court by telling me that one of my protéges would get an award – since they knew I would want to be there and share her joy.
I did think it was slightly strange that my close friend Helena was so helpful with me getting dressed for that court. But since I have had that shoulder surgery I figured that she was just being nice and making sure I got the help I needed.
And once there everything changed into a dream!
My vigil was set up in  a pavillion and they had decorated it and made sure it looked as historicaly correct as possible. I got some wonderful marcipan decorations (that were very yummy too!), fruit, pies, cheese, medieval cookies and pies of different kinds.
There were flowers and some gifts ready at a table for me, and before it was set out for everyone to sign I got to see my vigil book made by Lord Ludewic. After that everything is practically a big fun blur even though I remember things better than from my Pelican vigil where I was just so completely overwhealmed that I couldn’t remember a thing.

The rest of what happened I will now show you in pictures. And later this week I intend to post a special blog on all the wonderful gifts I recieved. I am blessed with many great friends that made this day truely special and magical. Thank you all for making me feel like a Princess for 24 hours!!!

All pictures except one are taken by THL Lia de Thornegge who graciously let me publish theese pictures on my blog.

Sir GrimR and my vigil guards escort me to my vigil pavillion.
My wonderful vigil guards that stayed with me until 3 o´clock in the morning when the last visitor left the pavillion.
Sir GrimR escorts me to Their Majesties for my elevation. I am wearing my new dress that is made of a red and bronze silk damask and a dark chocolae brown silk velvet that is 100% silk. My veil over the wulsthaube is made of a thin wool and decorated with a silk/metal thread trim. The underskirt is made of linnen at the top and a wide stripe of a green silk damask at the bottom.
Me kneeling in front of Queen Eleonora.
Mistress Helena spoke for me as a member of the Order of the Laurel. She and I both live in the Barony of Aarnimetsä.
Sir George spoke for me as a member of the Order of the Chivalry. We both started in the SCA at about the same time and he lives in my home Shire, The Shire of Attemark.
My protéges and my dear lord all got front row places during the ceremony. From the left: Lady Åsa Fredriksdotter, Lord Vilhelm Torbjörnsson (holding my banner), in the background my lord Sir GrimR and then Viscountess Whilja de Gothia.
Mistress Johanna spoke for me as a member of the Order of the Pelican. We also both live in the Barony of Aarnimetsä.
Countess Judith spoke for me as a Lady of the Rose. We helped eachother through some tough times in the SCA together.
Lady Sahra spoke for me as a member of the populace. This is a rather new ”tradition” in Drachenwald and Lady Sahra also lives in the Barony of Aarnimetsä.
Duchess Alienor tells about the lineage of the medallion. It was given to her to keep for a Nordmark Laurel from Duchess Anna Blackleaf (I started in the SCA in the Principality of Nordmark, Shire of Attemark). Duchess Anna and I used to make scrolls together (for instance) when she lived in Drachenwald, and I cried some more when I was presented with her medallion!
Master Paul carries my chaplet into court. It was made by Estrid, Baroness Nordmark. She comes from my home shire.
King Vitus places the chaplet on my head. Or should I say on my wulsthaube.:) The cloak is Drachenwalds elevation cloak and was put on my shoulders by Mistress Alienor and Mistress Bridget.
It is hard to be in a bad mood when one has just gotten a Laurel! I was very happy that I went to the event and that I didn't burn my new dress...😉
After my ceremony. Picture taken by Duchess Cecilia Jonsdotter.
Me at the Grand Court at Double Wars one day after my ceremony. I am wearing the chaplet made by Baroness Estrid and a broche medallion given to me from my lord and quite a few friends. It is a Pelican/Laurel medallion from Darkridge Jewels made out of silver, amber, fresh water pearls and garnets.

Preparations

At the moment I am busy with preparations for the event here in Drachenwald called Double Wars.
I am responsible for the Arts and Science schedule as I have been the past 4 years or so.:)
This year we have a very promising schedule with loads and loads of classes, and currently I am working to get them all listed online. I am a bit late with this due to mu shoulder surgery, but I am hoping to have it all done this weekend.
I myself will be responsible for one workshop and one class – the workshop is a part of the Pennsic giftbasket and the class is a lecture on who the landsknecht women were.
I am at least hoping I will have time wnough to prepare that class!

I have also booked my tickets for Pennsic and this year I will attend the event for the full two weeks! I am looking forward to see my old friends and I am also hoping to meet some new.:)

For Double Wars I still have some hope to have my silk damask dress ready and for Pennsic I have some plans, but we will see what I will get started on as soon as I am done with all the work regarding Double Wars. The arm is still giving me trouble after the surgery and will most likely do so for quite some time, so I have had to lower my expectations on what I can achieve a bit.

Brick stitch

As usual I am working on several things at the same time – especially now since my shoulder surgery has limited the use of my left arm. One thing that has been easy to do is brick stitch embroidery so I started a small pouch.
The pattern is from the blog Medieval Arts & Crafts and I have used a 36 count even weave with thin woolen embroidery thread bought in Tallinn (usualy used for their traditional  embroideries).
I did start out with a completely different embroidery thread, all naturally dyed but thicker. That turned out to be to thinck for the 36 count even weave though so I switched to a different thread. Now I feel a bit uncertain if the new thread is to thin, but it looks a lot better than with the thicker thread…
I chose a warm scale of colours and had some help with the bold choice from a close friend.:)
The picture doesn’t really make the embroidery justice since it is quite enlarged in the picture. This is a tiny embroidery where each square measures about 2 cm in hight. Look at the needle to the left for some sence of scale!

My first more serious brickstitch project made on linnen with woolen thread.

Sneak peak

Just to show you what I am working on now…
Here are the fabrics for my next dress!
The red/bronze damask is 100% silk and so is the chocolate brown velvet!
The damask was aquired through ebay and the silk velvet was bought in my favourite store in Tallinn.
This project has been prepared and now I am just waiting for my shoulder to be well enough to cut it!

red/bronz silk damask and a chocolate brown silk velvet (it is actually 100% silk!) for my next German 16:th century dress!

How to make a Stuchlein – a looooong post!

NOTE: This is a 4 page post due to editing problems in WordPress…

First of all: this is my version of how to make the German 16:th century hat called stuchlein.
There are no extant examples – the only thing we can do is guess how it was made and this is my take on how to recreate this headwear to make it look as in the woodcuts and paintings.

There are many varieties of this hat – different regions had different fashions and the decorations varried depending on how wealthy the womans family was and if the stuchlein was ment for every day use or for special occasions.
The stuchlein was the headwear of married women. And it also stated that the woman was no longer a virgin. If a woman lost her virginity – the norm was that sje has to cover her hair. This way the stuchlein and the schleier (veil) could become a stigma if the woman had lost her virginity ouside of marrige. ( The article ”Haubendämmerung” by Jutta Zander-Seidel, 2010).

The stuchlein was made of at least 3 parts – sometimes even 4.
First you wore a linnen cap. This way you protected the wulsthaube – the second part of this headwear – from getting dirty from your hairs oils and dirt. The wulsthaube was a cap with a stuffed roll attatched to it to get the volume at the vack of the head that is typical for the stuchlein. The stuffed roll was either sewn to a cap or laced to it – there are different takes on this and it is quite possible that both ways of construction existed.
After that you wore a cover that could either be just a schleier (veil) or a decorated or richely decorated cap. The veil often had a long tail that was either wrapped under the chin and then fastened at the side of the headwear with a pin, or the long tail could be wrapped around the wearers arm.
The decorated caps could be decorated with different trims making up a pattern of stripes and they could also be embellished with jewels. If the ouer cap was decorated with jewels and expensive embroideries – the women often wore a very thin veil on top of it so that the decorations could be seen through the light fabric but at the same time the valuable decoratoons were protected.

Here are some pictures that shows some stuchleins that have inspired me to this project.

Instant pater noster

For a while I have collected some beads to eventually make a pater noster to go with my renaissnace dresses.
This morning I finally got to making it since I really needed to DO something and not just sit around with my arm in a sling.
I have studied some pictures, read a bit about materials used, an today with the help from friends I read up some more on a pater noster website.

After that I simply got my materials and made a rosary that I think is pretty. Now I know I might hav the incorrect number of beads and other things – this time I just went with easthetics and what I think is pretty – but at the same time use the correct overall look for the item.
I used coral beads that were a leftover from site tokens for the event Aarnimetsä Academy that I was autocrating, silk thread of embroidery weight, carved bone beads in the shape of skulls and some metal beads and fresh water pearls for marker beads.
And 20 minutes later I had this:

 

Pater Noster made from coral beads, bone beads, fresh water pearls, metal beadds and silk thread.