Sneak peak

Just to show you what I am working on now…
Here are the fabrics for my next dress!
The red/bronze damask is 100% silk and so is the chocolate brown velvet!
The damask was aquired through ebay and the silk velvet was bought in my favourite store in Tallinn.
This project has been prepared and now I am just waiting for my shoulder to be well enough to cut it!

red/bronz silk damask and a chocolate brown silk velvet (it is actually 100% silk!) for my next German 16:th century dress!
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How to make a Stuchlein – a looooong post!

NOTE: This is a 4 page post due to editing problems in WordPress…

First of all: this is my version of how to make the German 16:th century hat called stuchlein.
There are no extant examples – the only thing we can do is guess how it was made and this is my take on how to recreate this headwear to make it look as in the woodcuts and paintings.

There are many varieties of this hat – different regions had different fashions and the decorations varried depending on how wealthy the womans family was and if the stuchlein was ment for every day use or for special occasions.
The stuchlein was the headwear of married women. And it also stated that the woman was no longer a virgin. If a woman lost her virginity – the norm was that sje has to cover her hair. This way the stuchlein and the schleier (veil) could become a stigma if the woman had lost her virginity ouside of marrige. ( The article ”Haubendämmerung” by Jutta Zander-Seidel, 2010).

The stuchlein was made of at least 3 parts – sometimes even 4.
First you wore a linnen cap. This way you protected the wulsthaube – the second part of this headwear – from getting dirty from your hairs oils and dirt. The wulsthaube was a cap with a stuffed roll attatched to it to get the volume at the vack of the head that is typical for the stuchlein. The stuffed roll was either sewn to a cap or laced to it – there are different takes on this and it is quite possible that both ways of construction existed.
After that you wore a cover that could either be just a schleier (veil) or a decorated or richely decorated cap. The veil often had a long tail that was either wrapped under the chin and then fastened at the side of the headwear with a pin, or the long tail could be wrapped around the wearers arm.
The decorated caps could be decorated with different trims making up a pattern of stripes and they could also be embellished with jewels. If the ouer cap was decorated with jewels and expensive embroideries – the women often wore a very thin veil on top of it so that the decorations could be seen through the light fabric but at the same time the valuable decoratoons were protected.

Here are some pictures that shows some stuchleins that have inspired me to this project.

Cute on the collar

Today I finally finished the embroidery for a shirt collar that I started about 4 years ago…
I am a bit ashamed to admit that this is one of the projects that I started and that for a long time looked like it would be forever forgotten and never finished…
However, when I got bronchitis this week I picked it up and actually managed to work my way through the whole piece!
Over the years I have done a bit here and a bit there – but never the kind of progress I made this week.

The embroidery is 41 cm long (16 inches) and 2 cm wide (a bit less then one inch).
I chose to make it rust red and black, the original was black and red.
The fabric is whatever linnen I found at home – and also the major reason why I almost abandoned the project…
I have not yet attatched it to the collar but I did pin it on so you will get a sneak peak!

The all done emrboiredy! Black and rust coloured silk on linnen, 41 cm long.

 

 

 

 

 

The embroidery roughly pinned on the collar of the shirt. The shirt is handsewn from thin hemp. The shirt ties are made with a lucet out of linnen thread.

Pouch all done!

I am finally done with my contribution to the Estrella giftbasket!
I used metal beads for all the tassles and for the closing cords I used carved bone beads that I think are pretty neat.
The cords are made with basic fingerloop braiding with DMC cotton.
Now it only needs to join the rest of the giftbasket to travel across the pond!

The little alms pouch I made for the Estrella giftbasket.

Progress on gift item

Today I attatched the ensignia embroidery on the wool the pouch will be made of.
First I cut off exessive fabric around the embroidery, then I attatched the embroidery to the fabric with regular hem stitches. I had to undo it once and reattatch it since it became obviously tilted.

After it was all fastened to the background fabric I took a piece of the DMC yarn and couched it down around the edges of the patch to cover any of the white linnen showing around the edges.

The embroidery all fastened on the pouch outer fabric.

Bag done

So this is how the bag turned out in the end!
I hope Mistress Helena von Eltz (aka Elina from Neulakko) will find it useful!

The bag in all its glory! I am really happy with how it turned out and I will make one for myself – but I am a bit hesitant about apliqueing a pelican… 😉
The bag a bit closer. All the edges were stitched down with a woolen yarn the same shade as the fabric.
The aplique close up. It was made with a white wool fabric stitched down by couching a naturally dyed yellow wool yarn with a thinner yellow wool yarn. The bag is lined with a green silk.

Elevation of a friend

This last weekend my friend known in the SCA as Helena von Eltz (to others known as Elina from Neulakko) was elevated to the Order of the Laurel. A very big occasion for an scadian. 🙂
My gifts to her were a patch to go on her hood (11 of her friends embroidered patches on the same base fabric) and a shoulder bag of wool lined with silk and withe a laurel wreath apliqued on the lid of the bag.
If you want to read more about the gifts and see all of the patches made for her hood go here.

I made my embroidered patch by couching a metal thread with an naturally dyed silk.
The same silk was used to outline each laurel leaf.
In the center I embroidered my initial letters with satin stitch. All outlining is done with split stitch.

Close up of my embroidered patch for Helenas Laurel hood.
The patch I embroidered for Helenas Laurel hood made with metal thread and silk.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The bag was made of a nice and thick blue wool lined with a dark green silk. It still needs it final touches but the process of the aplique of the laurel wreath can be seen here:

I cut out a template of the laurel wreath and used one of the cut out leaves as template for the woolen leaves.
I pinned the leaves in place using the template.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All leaves in place!
I couced the leaves in place using a thick naturally dyed wool yarn that was couched with a thin one.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All done with the aplique!