How to make a Stuchlein – a looooong post!

So after making this stuchlein there are ofcourse some other things I want to try.
After reading the article on the St. Birgitta cap in Medieval textiles and clothing 4, I started thinking abou the construction of the undercap – as in the first layer. Since we never see what is under the outer layers of the wulsthaube the undercap is a mystery. The St. Birgitta cap has never really been dated. There is an ink writing on it that was added to the cap after 1500 according to an expert in handwriting. The cap is of an earlier style though, considering caps in artwork. It is most likely from the 14:th century.
However the caps construction makes it interesting for the stuchlein.
To tie the St. Birgitta cap to the head, you use a long loop that is attatched to the hood and wrap it around your head twice. This leaves no hanging ties that can poke out from your stuchlein…
I am not saying I think this is how the first layer of the stuchlein was consructed, but you do want a first layer that sits firmly on your head since if it glides – your whole stuchlein might be unstable and glide on your head.
The second thing I would do differently is to cut the veil to be draped before decoration larger than I did. Mine ended up being slightly to small and I needed to be inventive to make it work in the end.
Overall I am happy with this project. Inspite my tweak it turned out nice and I think it looks like in the woodcuts and paintings – even though I took detalis from here and there and the stuchlein is not a copy of one single headwear.

Me wearing my Stuchlein.
Back view.
Final result! And I am happy with how it turned out!
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8 thoughts on “How to make a Stuchlein – a looooong post!

  1. Susan Mason

    Hello Katheryn,
    My name is Susan Mason (SCA- Katherine von Aachen). I was just looking at your documentation for your Stuchlein and was so excited to find the picture of the rear view. I think the it is the third row down and second in. Do you have the documentation for that picture?

    This past weekend I entered my Wulsthauben and Schleier (the one in the portrait of Katerina von Bora in her museum in Torgau. ) One of the judges was sure I had it wrong when I only had one binding strip hanging down and attached to the back. This is the picture I need to put in my documentation before the Kingdom Arts and Sciences competition.

    Thanks if you can help. And would you like a copy of my research?

    Susan/Katherine

    1. Hello! I would love a copy of your research!
      And I am sorry, I seem to have lost the name of the painter in all the months it took me to get around to do this post, but I do have a bigger portion of the painting that the picture in my post is croped from. Would you like that picture?
      I will do my best to find you more information!

      Katheryn

  2. Wonderful article, thank you for posting it.

    Do you think, that a Stuchlein would be stable enough with short hair under it or does it require long hair for stability?

    Petronilla

    1. As long as the first cap is done in a way so that you can tie it pretty hard on your head it shouldn’t matter is you have long or short hair. Make it so that it goes a bit lower down on your forehead for extra stability. The head wear should go low enough to cover your hairline anyway. 🙂

      1. Nice. I’ve been studying the paintings by Cranach (d.Ä) and almost every one of his paintings show the hairline under the (usually elaborate) headgear. Is that only because of the lack of the outermost layer of cloth or just another type of head cover?

      2. The Cranach paintings usually show a different headwear called goldhaube. The shape is different and they are golden/brown and sometimes have netting on top of the whole haube. The stuchlein makes the head look higher in the back – the goldhaube is usually rather flat at the top/back but has volume to the sides. Ofcourse there are goldhaubes that look like they have a wulst underneath and there are cranach paintings with stuchleins, but the typical cranach dress with the brustfleck and lacing in front is mostly seen with a goldhaube.

      3. Shows how much I know about 16th C Germany. 😉 The Stuchlein is prettier but the Goldhaube would be nice to embroider. I’ve never done 16th C before, and now I’ve been seeing so many beautiful paintings in Germanisches National Museum, that I’d like to give it a try. But research first! I’ve made the mistake of doing first and researching later too many times already.

        Petronilla

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