How to make a Stuchlein – a looooong post!

After that it was time to construct the outher cap. I cut out a rectangular veil. The length was decided by measuring from one of my shoulders, across my head to the other shoulder. The width was measured from my forehead to the base of my neck.
I then drpaed the veil over the wulsthaube while wearing it, an I tied the veil in the back with a rubber band – like a ponytail.
Then Icarefully  took the draped veil off from the wulsthaube to cut off excess fabric.

Always make sure you have plenty of leave to hem! My first try ended up being slightly to short!

The shape of the veil turned out like this after cutting:

The shape of the veil to make the decorated cap for a stuchlein.

The veil was hemmed and then I used a hatblock to drape it over the wulsthaube so that I could start decorating the stuchlein with silk ribbon. The ribbons were carefully stitched to the veil.

Pinning the silk ribbon over the draped veil.
Te edges of the silk ribbons were hidden under a vintage metal thread trim I found on ebay.
At the back the ends of the silk ribbons and the whole gathered end of the veil were covered and fixed by sewing a small tube of the veil fabric around the whole end just leaving the trimmed edge sticking out.

I did however do the mistake of cutting my veil a bit to short so once the stuchlein was almost done I noticed that it wasn´t coming down as low as I wanted on my forehead. So I added a small frill to save the headwear. 🙂 I have no proof of frills lik this – but it worked to fix my problem.
The whole stuchlein is really easy to put on and it sits really well on the head. I prefer to braid my hair and pin the braids to the back of my head to give the wulsthaube something to support it. It is also a very easy way to get the hair out of the way for putting on the hat.
The outer layer has no ties and needs no pins to stay in place. I just carefully pull it over the wulsthaube and it stays in place. When I wear it with a plain white veil I like to pin the veil to the wulsthaube with 2 or 3 veil pins.

The final look of the outer layer of my stuchlein.
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8 thoughts on “How to make a Stuchlein – a looooong post!

  1. Susan Mason

    Hello Katheryn,
    My name is Susan Mason (SCA- Katherine von Aachen). I was just looking at your documentation for your Stuchlein and was so excited to find the picture of the rear view. I think the it is the third row down and second in. Do you have the documentation for that picture?

    This past weekend I entered my Wulsthauben and Schleier (the one in the portrait of Katerina von Bora in her museum in Torgau. ) One of the judges was sure I had it wrong when I only had one binding strip hanging down and attached to the back. This is the picture I need to put in my documentation before the Kingdom Arts and Sciences competition.

    Thanks if you can help. And would you like a copy of my research?

    Susan/Katherine

    1. Hello! I would love a copy of your research!
      And I am sorry, I seem to have lost the name of the painter in all the months it took me to get around to do this post, but I do have a bigger portion of the painting that the picture in my post is croped from. Would you like that picture?
      I will do my best to find you more information!

      Katheryn

  2. Wonderful article, thank you for posting it.

    Do you think, that a Stuchlein would be stable enough with short hair under it or does it require long hair for stability?

    Petronilla

    1. As long as the first cap is done in a way so that you can tie it pretty hard on your head it shouldn’t matter is you have long or short hair. Make it so that it goes a bit lower down on your forehead for extra stability. The head wear should go low enough to cover your hairline anyway. 🙂

      1. Nice. I’ve been studying the paintings by Cranach (d.Ä) and almost every one of his paintings show the hairline under the (usually elaborate) headgear. Is that only because of the lack of the outermost layer of cloth or just another type of head cover?

      2. The Cranach paintings usually show a different headwear called goldhaube. The shape is different and they are golden/brown and sometimes have netting on top of the whole haube. The stuchlein makes the head look higher in the back – the goldhaube is usually rather flat at the top/back but has volume to the sides. Ofcourse there are goldhaubes that look like they have a wulst underneath and there are cranach paintings with stuchleins, but the typical cranach dress with the brustfleck and lacing in front is mostly seen with a goldhaube.

      3. Shows how much I know about 16th C Germany. 😉 The Stuchlein is prettier but the Goldhaube would be nice to embroider. I’ve never done 16th C before, and now I’ve been seeing so many beautiful paintings in Germanisches National Museum, that I’d like to give it a try. But research first! I’ve made the mistake of doing first and researching later too many times already.

        Petronilla

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