How to make a Stuchlein – a looooong post!

I started with making my wulsthaube. Since I wanted it to be tightly fitted and tied in the back I simply twitched a 3 pieced coif pattern to suit my need. I do know that womens coifs were not made of three pieces, but at the time of making my wulsthaube I was more interested in the overall final look than the precise construction of the coif that the wulst would be attatched to.
I use just a regular three pieced coif as the first layer aswell. At the end of this post I will give a new take on how theese two caps could be done.
Some have the theory that the wulst was instead sewn into the decorated cap. This means you would basically get one layer lesson your head. There is one thing that speaks against this theory. Each stuchlein would have to have its own wulst. You wouldn’t simply be able to switch the outer layers. So one wulsthaube wouldn’t be enough.
There are two ways of constructing the stuffed roll called wulst:

the first one makes it easy since you don't have to do that many shaping stitches to get the roll look like it should. The otherone is fabric saving but requiresa bit more modelling. Personally I think the second way is the best way. The size of the wuls depends on how thick you make it in the middle of the pattern.
My wulsthaube made of white linnen. The roll is attatched with stitches in three points. I used the quick way (non fabric saving) to make the wulst.
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8 thoughts on “How to make a Stuchlein – a looooong post!

  1. Susan Mason

    Hello Katheryn,
    My name is Susan Mason (SCA- Katherine von Aachen). I was just looking at your documentation for your Stuchlein and was so excited to find the picture of the rear view. I think the it is the third row down and second in. Do you have the documentation for that picture?

    This past weekend I entered my Wulsthauben and Schleier (the one in the portrait of Katerina von Bora in her museum in Torgau. ) One of the judges was sure I had it wrong when I only had one binding strip hanging down and attached to the back. This is the picture I need to put in my documentation before the Kingdom Arts and Sciences competition.

    Thanks if you can help. And would you like a copy of my research?

    Susan/Katherine

    1. Hello! I would love a copy of your research!
      And I am sorry, I seem to have lost the name of the painter in all the months it took me to get around to do this post, but I do have a bigger portion of the painting that the picture in my post is croped from. Would you like that picture?
      I will do my best to find you more information!

      Katheryn

  2. Wonderful article, thank you for posting it.

    Do you think, that a Stuchlein would be stable enough with short hair under it or does it require long hair for stability?

    Petronilla

    1. As long as the first cap is done in a way so that you can tie it pretty hard on your head it shouldn’t matter is you have long or short hair. Make it so that it goes a bit lower down on your forehead for extra stability. The head wear should go low enough to cover your hairline anyway. 🙂

      1. Nice. I’ve been studying the paintings by Cranach (d.Ä) and almost every one of his paintings show the hairline under the (usually elaborate) headgear. Is that only because of the lack of the outermost layer of cloth or just another type of head cover?

      2. The Cranach paintings usually show a different headwear called goldhaube. The shape is different and they are golden/brown and sometimes have netting on top of the whole haube. The stuchlein makes the head look higher in the back – the goldhaube is usually rather flat at the top/back but has volume to the sides. Ofcourse there are goldhaubes that look like they have a wulst underneath and there are cranach paintings with stuchleins, but the typical cranach dress with the brustfleck and lacing in front is mostly seen with a goldhaube.

      3. Shows how much I know about 16th C Germany. 😉 The Stuchlein is prettier but the Goldhaube would be nice to embroider. I’ve never done 16th C before, and now I’ve been seeing so many beautiful paintings in Germanisches National Museum, that I’d like to give it a try. But research first! I’ve made the mistake of doing first and researching later too many times already.

        Petronilla

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